Bakuchiol under-eye masks vs retinol: what to know

Bakuchiol is a plant extract, from the seeds of the babchi plant, that's often described as a gentle, plant-based alternative to retinol. It isn't a retinoid, and it isn't vitamin A. In an under-eye mask it's part of an evening routine for smoother-looking skin. One well-known study of face creams found it compared well with retinol and was better tolerated, but that study wasn't about under-eye masks, and we don't promise the same result from a mask.

The short version

What the research does and doesn't show

The best-known study is a 2019 trial in the British Journal of Dermatology (Dhaliwal et al.). It was randomised and double-blind. 44 people used either a 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice a day or a 0.5% retinol cream once a day, on the face, for 12 weeks. Photos were graded at weeks 0, 4, 8 and 12. Both groups saw a similar reduction in wrinkle area and pigmentation, and the retinol group reported more scaling and stinging.

What that means, honestly:

• It was a small study of face creams, not of under-eye masks. We don't claim our masks give the same result.
• It suggests bakuchiol can be a gentler option for people who want to avoid retinol. The tolerability answers were reported by the participants.
• Results vary from person to person. An under-eye mask is one part of a routine, alongside sunscreen, sleep and a good moisturiser.

What's in our purple mask

The Age Defying Collagen Boost Eye Masks (purple) are made for the evening, for an under-eye area that looks smoother and more rested in 15 minutes:

• Bakuchiol, the plant-based alternative to retinol, for smoother-looking skin.
• Three peptides: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, for firmer, smoother-looking skin.
• Vegan collagen (made by yeast fermentation) for a plumper, firmer-looking under-eye.
• Hyaluronic acid, glycerin and allantoin for hydration and comfort.

They're fragrance-free, and free from parabens, sulphates, drying alcohol, retinoids and mineral oil. A jar is 30 pairs for A$55 (A$1.83 a pair).

Shop Age Defying Collagen Boost: 30 pairs, A$55

How to use a bakuchiol under-eye mask at night

1. Cleanse and pat your skin dry.
2. Place one mask under each eye, smooth side down, just below the lower lashes and not touching the eye itself.
3. Leave it on for 15 minutes while you wind down.
4. Peel off and pat in the leftover essence. No need to rinse. Then apply your night cream.

Don't sleep in them; 15 minutes is enough. More detail: How long should you leave under-eye masks on?

New to bakuchiol? For external use only. Do a patch test first: a little essence on your inner arm or behind your ear, and wait a day. If your skin feels irritated at any point, stop using them.

Purple at night, pink in the morning

For the morning, the Brightening & Depuffing Eye Masks (pink) have vitamin C, caffeine and Kakadu Plum for under-eyes that look brighter and less puffy. The AM + PM Eye Ritual is one jar of each: 60 pairs for A$99, or A$1.65 a pair, with free shipping Australia-wide.

Frequently asked questions

Is bakuchiol the same as retinol?

No. Bakuchiol is a plant extract from babchi seeds. It isn't a form of vitamin A and it isn't a retinoid. It's often described as a gentler, plant-based alternative to retinol.

Does the Collagen Boost mask contain retinol?

No. There's no retinol or other retinoid in any Kenzina mask.

Is bakuchiol good for under the eyes?

Bakuchiol is often chosen for delicate areas because it's known for being gentle. Our purple mask uses it for evening care for smoother-looking skin. If you're new to it, do a patch test first.

Should you use retinol near your eyes?

It depends on the product. Some retinol products say to avoid the eye area and others are made for it, so check the label. If you're not sure, ask your pharmacist or dermatologist. There's no retinol in any Kenzina mask.

Does bakuchiol make your skin sensitive to the sun?

Retinol products usually come with advice to use them at night and wear sunscreen, because they can make skin more sensitive to the sun. Bakuchiol isn't a retinoid, and the 2019 study above didn't look at sun sensitivity, so we don't make a claim either way. Our purple mask is an evening step, and daily sunscreen is a good habit with any routine.

Can I use bakuchiol every night?

Many people do. Use the mask for 15 minutes after cleansing. If your skin feels irritated, stop and give it a rest.

Can I use bakuchiol if I'm pregnant or breastfeeding?

Please ask your doctor or pharmacist before using any new skincare while pregnant or breastfeeding.

Can I use bakuchiol with vitamin C?

Yes, many routines do. For example, the pink mask with vitamin C in the morning and the purple mask with bakuchiol at night.

Related answers

• Collagen eye masks: do they work?
• How long to leave under-eye masks on
• Do under-eye masks help puffiness? A 15-minute AM routine
• Kenzina under-eye masks: what's in each jar and who it suits

Sources

• Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR, et al. "Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing." British Journal of Dermatology 2019;180(2):289–296. 44 participants, 12 weeks, face creams. PubMed.
• Kenzina product directions and ingredient lists.

Last checked: 28 Oct 2026